Panama Canal and Sailing to Colombia

I left the last entry in Panama City, but I had not seen the Canal by that point. I spent a day at the Miraflor locks. I was fortunate enough to see a couple of cargo ships go through the locks. The sheer size of it all was humbling. The ships are 300 feet by 1050 feet and hold thousands of of truck size containers. I could go into the engineering of the locks, but I will refrain. What I would like to spend some time sharing is an amazing sailing trip I took from Panama City to Cartagena, Colombia. I left last thursday the 24th of July and did not arrive in Colombia until today the 31st of July. I was joined by 7 other tourists on a 40 foot sailboat called the Wind Surfer. Our captain, a 23 year old Colombian named Tilson. Our first leg was from Panama City to the San Blas Islands. These are islands off of the west coast of Panama and are not included on most maps. They are owned and controlled by the Kuna tribe and are much like the indian reserves of the US. They live in sugar cane cabanas and their only mode of transportation is a dugout canoe. The San Blas Islands are a collection of 375 islands which a single family can inhabit for 3 months and then they must switch islands. None of them are owned by foreigners, in fact foreigners are not allowed to even rent them. We spend four days there and spend the night on our sailboat. They were some of the most pristine beaches I have ever seen. One night we were treated by a Kuna family to a lobster and crab dinner which they had spent the whole day catching. It was a scene right out of survivor. I and my travel companions were eating by lantern in a sugarcane hut, breaking the shells with whatever hard object we could get our hands on. Well the difficult part of the journey was a 50 hour straight shot from San Blas Islands to Cartagena. Now just to place some emphasis, this is over two days of straight sailing, without stopping. Well we started of well, getting great time and enjoying ourselves. Then the wind died. We were stranded somewhere in the carribean sea, motionless. Fortunately our luck changed and we got moving again. There was a bit of a storm on our last leg with the boat rocking so profoundly that it was impossible to get any sleep, in fact a wave crashed into the side of our boat and my open window was turned into a water tunnel into my cabin. On a positive note I did get a chance to see several groups of dolphins and flying fish as well as some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets that I have seen in my life. Arriving in Cartagena, finally after 7 days of poor nights sleep as well as my only showers being swimming in the salt water, it was a godsend. It is such a beautiful city, the old town looks straight from a movie set. I will have more time in the next few days to see more of it. Until next time.

A man a plan a canal panama

Much has happened in the last week, I will try to keep it succinct though. Last time I had written I was in San Jose, Costa Rica. Well my next stop was Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. This is located on the south eastern corner of Costa Rica. According to the travel book it is "a laid back beach town where anything more than surfing or laying on the beach is considered overly ambitious." Once there I have to admit that I was dissapointed. The town had a seedy feel and my friend and I immediately thought we would leave the following day. On a whim we decided to walk down the solid coral, depressing beach in search of better pastures. To our amazement as we turned bend an immense expanse of beach with crashing waves opened before us. Immediately we did a 180 and decided to stay a couple of nights. We certainly took advantage of the beach as well as the waves, body surfing.
Next on the itinerary was Boca del Toro in Panama. This is located on the north eastern part of the country. Its an archipeligo (a chain of islands), each with it's own personality. We stayed on the main island which was called Isla Colon, mainly because it has the best night life and restaurants. We spent the first night enjoying the 50 cent beers and getting to know some of the other travelers. Yada Yada Yada, large headache the next day. Taking a water taxi we visited another island and spent the day laying around a beautiful, private beach. What I neglect to mention is that to get to this beach you have to take a 30 minute hike through mud upto your calves, the only way to make it is to go at it barefoot, which got quite slippery. I am not sure that many beaches would be worth it, and this was barely so.
Today I have just arrived in Panama City. We crossed the Panama canal to get to the bus station, I will be checking that out in more detail in the coming days. I will hopefully be able to get some pictures up here is a few days. Until next time.

Travels have begun, Corn Island and San Jose

I would like to apologize that my writing style has diminished. I do not have a computer so I am writing these in internet cafes, not exactly an inspiring locale. I am currently in San Jose, Costa Rica, I finished with the Peace Corps in Nicaragua on July the 8th. The first leg of the journey took me to Corn Island. These are islands on the Caribbean side (East Coast) of Nicaragua. It is much different than the west coast counterpart. For one thing they speak creole English. The people are of African decent. There are two islands, Big Corn and Little Corn. The big one is mainly a fishing village and much more developed. The highlight of the trip though was Little Corn Island. It was like a deserted island. It is less than 1 mile long and about .5 miles wide. There are about 450 residents and no cars nor roads on the island. I am traveling with another Peace Corps volunteer named David and we rented a cabana about 20 feet from the waters edge. It was so peaceful, almost too much so. There is little to do on the island, other than swim, drink beer, eat, and lay around and that is what we did for 3 days straight. It is the rainy season right now, so it pretty much rains every day. Fortunately we at least had a half a day of sunshine and then it would get overcast leading into torrential downpours. I have to say that I got a little nervous when the winds would pick up that the waves would crash over our cabana, but it never got that bad. After a few days we got a little sick of paradise and decided to move on. Flying back to the capital of Nicaragua, Managua, in the middle of a storm on a little prop engine plane is not an enjoyable experience. I will never trust those little things. Spending the night in Managua, we woke up early to catch our 10 hour bus ride into San Jose. Once arrived we decided to enjoy the local cuisine of Taco Bell. It has been over 2 years since I enjoyed one of America's greatest achievements. It had been a long day sitting on a bus and we were not up for much adventure, so we found a local bar and decided to have one beer before getting some sleep. Well it wasn't long before the locals got curious with the strange gringos and began to buy us beers so that they could sit down and talk with us. One guy in particular would have been an unbelievable character in a play or movie. I had noticed him dancing by himself earlier with a beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other. Well he pulled up a chair at our table and switched from an unintelligible babble, to handshakes, to hugs, to deep screeching cackles. Still now, in the morning, I can smell his cologne on me. He was a very nice character, but I don't think I have ever consumed a beer faster so I could get out of there. Today I am to explore the city of San Jose. Until next time.

My Nicaraguan Exit Interview

This was published in the quarterly magazine for Peace Corps Nicaragua. It is a publication written for volunteers by volunteers. Filling this out also means that my service is coming to an end. I can not believe that it has been two years. I am due to leave here in July.
1) Name: Oliver Dunn
2) Site: Somoto, Madriz
3) Nicknames: Chele (whitey), Profe (Professor), Oliver Cann, Oliver Garza
4) Favorite Dicho (saying): “Que me la vaya bien” (“Go well for me”), why am I going well for you? , “Si dios quiere” (If God wants it”), a great way to not have to do anything, apparently God didn’t want it.
5) Any advice on dating a Nica? If you get more attention here then you did in the states, then I am sure it is true love.
6) What did you do during your service? Helped build Primary Schools, Tried to teach kids to think originally, Tried to help restaurants with their business, traveled all over Nicaragua. Read tons of books.
7) If you could change one aspect of your service what would it be? I did it pretty much the way I thought I would and wanted to.
8) What will you miss? Having so much free time to relax, read, write, reflect, and hang out. I will certainly miss being able to get sauced off of $5.
9) What would BRING YOU BACK to Nicaragua? If I receive the following phone call within my lifetime: “Oliver, this is Danny Ortega calling. We have a bit of a situation. Nicaragua, as you are well aware, is going through some growing pains. Well, as it turns out the Nicaraguan people have banded together to develop their tourism trade by organizing themselves and their resources. We have decided it is about time that Costa Rica stop taking all of the tourists in Central America. The reason I am calling you is that your President has made me aware that you are well versed in this field. In fact you are the only person in the world who can make this happen. Without you there will never be a possibility for Nicaragua to reach “developed nation” status. The future of Nicaragua, its culture and people rest on you. We are willing to pay you whatever it takes for you to lend us your services. Please, please, come back to Nicaragua to help us. You are our last hope, without you we will surely fall.” So yeah if I received this phone call then I would at least flip a coin, heads being that I come back.
10) Your most pinche (cheap) moment? I lived 2 weeks on 500 cords ($25) to see if I could do it, I guess this is not that big of a feat for an Agriculture Volunteer, what do you people spend your money on?
11) How has the PC changed you? I will certainly be much nicer to and more patient with people who can not speak English very well. I have even more of an appreciation for the US then I already had. I am much more realistic on the effectiveness of “development work”.
12) Favorite Nica food or drink? Gallo Pinto (Rice and Beans) with Ketchup, Tacos with ketchup and cream, Fresco de Naranja (Fresh Squeezed orange juice).
13) Most random care package item? A box of baby wipes, however they came in handy.
14) How many times did you have to poo in a cup? Never, I am the bionic man, I imagine all the lead and arsenic I had in my local drinking water helped me.
15) Best/worst memory? My best memories were the times I spent with other volunteers, too many to count. My worst memory was almost dying when a truck I had hired nearly fell off a cliff when the brakes gave out.
16) Bus stories? A fond memory I have riding a bus was when a friend and I rode on top of one. We were heading to a rural mountain community and we took turns passing a bottle of rum and coke, while dodging the low laying branches and power lines. The views just kept getting better. (If this is not permitted then I was just making it up, but I did have a helmet on.)
17) Most embarrassing moment? It was kind of embarrassing coming back to site after the two consolidations during the threats of hurricanes. It never got worse than a torrential drizzle in my site and they could not understand why I had to be emergency evacuated.
18) Would you do it all over again? If I were to be transported back two years, I would do it again. That is to say I am glad that I did it. Would I do another 2.25 years after this? Ni quiere a dios (Even god wouldn’t want it).
19) Did you ever think about quitting? Never seriously, the idea of working 10 hour days, having to wake up at 6am, and sitting at a desk seemed worse.
20) Conveniences/commodities/creature comforts you missed the most? Choices at a bar, food from all over the world, being surrounded by people who “get you”, peace and quiet, not having to cross my fingers every time I eat, warm showers, not being bored out of my mind, not being asked for money or visas every day, common courtesy….shall I continue?
21) What's next? Travel through South and Central America for as long as the readjustment allowance allows. I suppose after that I will look for a job that I can make a lot of money so that I can buy a bunch of crap to make myself feel better about all the time I spend at work. Have a family, sacrifice for my children so that they can have more than I did growing up. Have them grow up to be unappreciative, resentful and tell me how I ruined their lives. Eventually retire, move to an old folks home, have my mind slowly slip away and call my family, who only come to visit twice a year out of guilt, the wrong names. Sit staring out of a window muttering nonsense to myself and then one day become mulch.
22) Advice for remaining volunteers? If given a choice, most people would not choose to do this. Don’t let someone make you feel guilty for not doing enough. Do what you need to do to keep your head. Make sure you keep a good sense of humor about things.
23) Parting words: Roses are red, violets are blue, you’re still in Nicaragua, sucks for you! Thanks for the memories.

Development Work in the 3rd World

Visions of poor naked children playing in the dirt usually come to mind when one thinks of the 3rd world. Houses made of mud brick, straw or corrugated tin roofs dominate the landscape. Well this is not too far off, but certainly not the rule. There are disparities in wealth just as we have the in the United States, the most wealthy nation in the world. We certainly have all of the modern conveniences at our finger tips, if we have the means to take advantage of it. Often there is a bit of guilt for the people who have “everything”, and our benevolent conscious grips us when we see the commercials about what 20 cents a day can do if we were only to make the phone call to pledge this meager tithe. Millions of people around the world do try to help by donating tens of millions of dollars worth of money, clothes and food. Clearly it is the duty of humanity who can afford it to be socially responsible. It is not as if one chooses at conception where they wish to be born, into what family, or socio economic level. There has been a lot of good done and a plethora of good to be done.
The problem that seems to exist though is that the inefficiencies in development work are such that no person in their right mind would invest in a public company with similar practices. In effect that is what we are doing when we put money into a development project, investing. The goal is not to see financial returns, but rather to see that people are better off than before.
Currently countless dollars are poured into projects that do not have clearly defined goals and objectives. Many religious groups are to blame for this fact. They think that to give gifts are the way to better an underdeveloped nation. This has created a culture of the open palm. People will wait around for years for someone to rebuild buildings, roads, bridges, schools, homes, latrines, wells etc. There are very few non governmental organizations (NGOs) that will teach people how to do the work that will offer them the opportunity to better their own lives.
What is happening is that the open palms have replaced people willing to break a sweat. It is much easier for both parties to throw money at a problem, but never effective. How can people in developing nations be trusted with lump sums of money? Clearly they have not learned the skill of using it to grow and develop or else they would not be in the predicament they are in. Government officials in the US are corrupt; do we honestly think that they would not be here?
An issue that I have seen is that there are too many NGOs. They tend to overlap in many areas and think it beneficial to reinvent the wheel at every step. Understandably they have to have something to sell the investors, but why aren’t there NGOs who are able to direct finances towards programs that exist and have proven effective. How many different English programs are needed? This is the case in most niches of development work. Everyone want to have their name stamped on a product and none of them are very good products. It seems that the type of people who go into development work are scattered. They may begin with an idea and then see need in other areas as well. They then try to reach 6 or 7 different issues and do then all poorly. Could any company be effective if they begin making bicycles and then see the need for t-shirts, bubble gum, couches, light bulbs and cement? Possibly with the work force of the US government this would be possible, but in the real world this is not efficient.

Teamwork

Give Me a Break

Well I’ve just returned from my most recent brush with death. I’d received a phone call early in the morning asking if I’d be so kind as to get out to a rural community where we’d built a school and take photos of it. The donors for the school like to have a nice picture in their office to prove that they are good people. Well as I’m also a very good person I jumped at the opportunity. I hired a truck to take me out there which cost the equivalent of $60 for the entire day. To a Nicaraguan this is a small fortune, but I was in a time crunch so I did what needed to be done.
Things got off to a great start. I had to borrow a camera from a friend of mine, but he decided to join me on my quest. The mission was to drive to the school, take happy smiling pictures of the students in front of their new school, then drive home and send these pictures back to the states. It seemed, at first, like a fairly straight forward task, something even I could accomplish. We ran into some early luck. I did not know exactly how to get to the school since I’d only been there once. I stopped by the mayor’s office, interrupting his meeting to get directions. As luck would have it there was a member of the destination community at the meeting. I was able to take him with me, therefore avoiding the whole “getting lost” problem.
Well more or less that was the last of our good luck and the beginning of our “find the good fortune in this” luck. It began to rain. Never mind the fact that we are currently in “dry season”. Since I was in the back of a pickup truck I was exposed to the elements. Fortunately it was cold too, so I was cold and wet as the wind pelted me. We passed by the teacher of the school as he was leaving the community on his bike. Needing help gathering the students, since school is currently out of session, we picked him up to, promising that we would drive him to where he needed to go afterwards.
We got to the final stretch of our trip there, rain still going strong. To our astonishment we came upon a truck that was stuck in the mud on the one lane bridge. The owner was nowhere to be found. From this point on me and a few others had to walk the rest of the way, about 3 miles to the school. Uphill, 3 miles in the rain sucks! I convinced my driver to wait for me to return, which was to be about 5 hours later from our guess. At this point I was glad that I never pay anyone the full amount until I reach my destination. He also sent one of his two helpers with us, from what I can gather for confidence purposes. I am just glad that he did not send the chatty one with us.
Being confident that we were not going to be stranded 35 miles from the nearest town with a phone line, we began our hike. It was not all that bad, but just a bit slippery and wet. Once in town we had lunch at the teacher’s house while the other person we had picked up in the community let the students know there was to be picture time. Now I would like to spend a moment on this. I am at a loss how they are able to get information around in these towns. People live in a radius of about 10 kilometers, but somehow everyone gets the message within an hour. Since Nicaraguans do not move too fast and having “runners” is out of the question, I will just assume that it is mental telepathy.
We sat around waiting out the rains and found our 10 minute window for happy, smiley, picture time. Nicaraguans in general do not smile in photos. They take it as a very serious occasion. A donor does not want a picture of 20 kids who look like they are pissed. People who live in rural communities are the hardest to get to smile. They are self-conscious, timid and nervous. I had to act like a moron for 10 minutes to get any reaction out of these kids. I know that me acting like a moron is a stretch for the imagination, but seriously I can pull it off.
Mission accomplished we wrapped up and headed back. The rain began again, this time harder than before. It was an easier trip back being that it was down hill, but more slippery. Back at the truck that had fortunately waited for us, the guys, whom had not eaten all day, were stealing unripe plantains from a farm. We piled in back, with shoes squishing and underwear dripping. We were given a plastic sheet to put over our heads to help us dry out.
I have to say that I had a bad feeling about the ride back, but I was thrilled to have pulled off this feat. We were going fine for most of the way until we got to a hill where we could not quite make it. This is not a rare occurrence, usually you just back up, get everyone out of the truck and then they give it another shot, if successful then everyone just walks up the hill and continue on. Well this was not the usual case. We stalled and then began backing up. Something did not feel right since we were coasting backwards at an uncontrolled pace. In fact it felt as if the driver did not have any control. In fact the driver did not have any control. We were going backwards, without breaks on a mountain road. Since we were in the back of the truck we could see what was coming. Right in our line was a tree on the side of the road. Narrowly missing the tree we began rolling backwards off the side of the road. We began taking out a barbed wire fence until we came to a crashing stop in a ditch on the side of the road.
I would like to touch on when I said earlier about how the “find the good fortune in this” luck began. Well this was truly the case. Had we gone off the other side of the road, I would have found myself careening down a 50 foot cliff. As it was we were half in this ditch and teetering, had we gone any father a good couple of rolls would have been on the menu. If I were to be asked what I do in an emergency situation the answer is nothing. I just sat there frozen, hoping to hit the tree so it would stop us.
Here we were about 20 miles from the nearest town with electricity. Our truck stuck in a ditch. At this point it was about 4:30pm, the sun sets at about 5:30pm. Fortunately we had cell phones, but we were so far from town that to find a signal we had to walk around finding higher ground with the phones over our heads. I was the only one with signal, but low on minutes. Once minutes run out the phone is useless other then to receive calls. We were able to get in touch with the mayor, but they were sketchy about the details of coming to help us. I called Peace Corps as a backup. I was hoping to have them dispatch the helicopter, but no such luck. At around 8pm, with the help of the mayor we had gotten the truck out of the ditch and they drove us back into town. We left the old truck on the side of the road, it not being reliable to trust. The driver and one of his helpers spent the night inside of it so that it was not stolen. We all spent the night in a hostel in town.
Well I feel fortunate that things did not end up worse as they could have. I have now developed a terror of being in a truck as it is climbing a hill. I am waiting for this to happen again. I think I will have to place myself in a spot where I can make a jump for it if need be. All I know is that I had better be racking up some major “get into heaven” points.